The Lone Tree of Lake Vrnwy

One return trip to one of Wales’s most breathtaking lakes led me to a discovery that might rival the famous tree standing on Llyn Padarn. On the borders of Snowdonia National Park, just south of Lake Bala, lies Lake Vyrnwy—nestled among the remote and rugged Berwyn Mountains, flanked by waterfalls, open countryside untouched by modern development. It’s a place you won’t forget, though arriving at 3 a.m. makes the beauty hard to see at first.

Ava Collins

Mic note

Even though it’s about a 2½-hour drive from my home in Worcestershire, this was my second visit to this magical place. On my first trip, I had focused on photographing what I call the Princess Tower at Lake Vyrnwy—a striking Gothic Revival building that dominates the view, set opposite the grand Victorian dam that holds back nearly 60 gigalitres of water in the Vyrnwy valley.

At the end of that initial visit, before breakfast, I walked along the edge of the 12-mile-long lake, scouting for new subjects in case I returned. One object caught my eye: a solitary tree standing within the lake—undiscovered and apparently unphotographed. That became the purpose of this return journey.

Getting There & Early Light

We parked beside the B4393, grabbed our gear, and made our way down the carriageway’s edge. A bridge crosses the Eunant river, but tall trees block much of the lakeside view. Still, we were convinced there must be a passable route from the bridge down to the lake’s shore. With torches guiding our way under moonlight, we found a steep but manageable path, stepping over a crash barrier; the route dropped sharply into undergrowth, rocks, and a precipitous shoreline.

Once at the water's edge, we navigated in darkness to a rocky outcrop that would become our base for the coming hours. In the early hours, the cold wind bit beneath our coats; stars hung crisply overhead under a half-moon; the lake valley loomed, its water inky and forbidding. The shore was strewn with stones and boulders—useful for resting gear—while river currents seemed deep and swift, the edges steep and shadowed.

Framing the Shot

My companion Mark was already scrambling onto slippery rocks for vantage. I watched him find an ideal position to frame the lone tree, looking down the length of the lake. Hesitant at first, I slowly followed, edging along the rocks, trying not to disturb his setup. To my right was a sheer drop; to my left stood Mark’s tripod. Any misstep could cost much more than just a photo.

Once I settled into a somewhat safer position, I unloaded my camera and tripod, setting up carefully. The cold, the wind, the precarious terrain—all of it was uncomfortable. But slow-breathing, careful movements helped steady things. When the first light of dawn crept across the horizon, everything changed.

The Sunrise Moment

As darkness yielded to dawn, the lake and sky transformed. Deep blues faded into pastel pinks and ambers. Wispy clouds caught the light; the surface of the water shimmered with early‐morning fog drifting down the valley. The chill in my bones—the numb fingers and soaked clothes—faded into bliss. It was one of the best sunrises I’ve witnessed in a long time. All the hardship felt worthwhile.

In that moment, the scene was more than just landscape photography—it felt like a reminder of our smallness before nature’s grandeur. Yet there I was, frame by frame, trying to capture what looked almost unreal.

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